Join our Newsletter for details of special offers only available to those who enlist. CLICK HERE.

To unsubscribe Click Here.

Q: How can I learn to do stained glass?
A: Easy, if there are no stained glass courses in your area and in the UK they seem to be few and far between then
you can self teach yourself by obtaining various stained glass instruction books. You can never have too many glass
books. The one I recommend is " Introduction in Stained Glass by Wardell Publications" it's of course available di-
rect from us.

Q: Which size of copper foil should I be using, there seems to be so many?
A: To keep it short use 5.5 mm this is normally used size for general purpose.
If using mirror glass then use silver backed tape as the backing will blend in with the mirror and not show
through the edge.
The same goes if you are foiling clear class, use the appropriate backing to match the patina you'll be using.
You can also buy copper foil sheets which are used for creating decorative soldering and shapes.

 Q: I'm new to stained glass can you advise on handling solder and lead came?
A: A few common sense rules in your studio will enable you to enjoy your stained glass craft fully without any
mishaps.
Always solder in a well ventilated area. If possible place a fan to the side of your work to drag the fumes away
from you and towards an open window. If you turn the fan around so that it is pointing away from you, this will
have the same effect as an extractor fan.
Never eat, drink or even smoke when soldering or handling lead came, and remember to wash your hands be-
fore doing anything else.
Cover up any open wounds/cuts with plasters to avoid contact with the lead.
Always unplug your iron when finished and never leave it unattended until it has completely cooled down.
Use a face mask whenever your are soldering.
Always keep children safely away from your work area.

Q: I keep getting bubbles appearing in my solder seam, help!
A: Your using too much flux. I use a flux brush which I have cut down the bristles to about 1 cm this help prevent the brush soaking up too much flux. Give it a try.
Have a read through my soldering tips below they should help you achieve a better finish. Remember the following tips and you won't go wrong.
Before you start soldering apply flux sparingly to the copper foil. Next apply a drop of solder at every joint. This is called tack soldering and will enable you to see the overall position of all your glass pieces in case you need to readjust them prior to bead soldering.
If there are any gaps which need filling then fill these now. You will find 40/60 solder more suited to this work. Now move the iron and solder continuously along the fluxed copper foil and apply more solder until a rounded bead is formed. Do not stop at the copper foil intersections or you will not get a smooth bead. But remember not to move too slowly or the heat from the iron might crack the glass.
If the solder starts to spit or small pits appear in the solder then you are using too much flux, wipe off and reapply sparingly. Too little flux and you'll find that the solder won't stick to the copper foil and patches will show through.
Now look closely at the solder seams, if they look flat then go over then applying more solder, just enough to give you a raised bead. Don't worry if your seams are a bit bumpy you can always go over them again later to improve the appearance of your bead.
Remember practice makes perfect, so try and practice on clear or scrap glass whenever you can and try different combinations. It will be worth it in the end. Good Luck!

Q: Have you got any tips on using patina?
A: Well here's a refresher on the use of patina.
To get the best effect make sure your glass project is thoroughly clean and no traces of flux remains. Dry the project well after washing.
If the project has been left for a while after cleaning then rub the solder seams with fine steel wool ('0000' grade), wipe off any pieces of steel wool left with a dry cloth. This will prepare/clean the solder ready to take the patina.
Pour a small amount of patina into a clean container and use a small scouring pad (nylon washing up type) or an old clean toothbrush to apply the patina solution all over the solder seams.
When you see the desired effect appear then wash well in soapy water and dry. Do not leave the patina on for too long.
To give that final touch either use a small amount of metal polish just on the seams or use car polish all over the finished glass project to give a nice shiny professional finish. We use the car polish method as this also gives the glass a final clean and polish. But remember if using metal polish then do not rub too hard as the patina coating will start to reveal the silver solder underneath.

Q: I am having problems drilling a hole in the exact place on the glass can you advise?
A: Drilling holes can always be a hit or miss affair, however try to use a well lubricated 6 mm grinder head and not use a domestic drill with a drill bit as these tend to slip about. Again I've put together some general tips top help.
To drill a hole hold your glass at an angle to the grinding head holding a wet sponge against the glass for lubrication. As you start to grind through the glass then start to flatten out the glass to a horizontal position.
When the grinder head becomes worn then move the head position down giving a fresh band of diamonds for quicker grinding.
Make sure to keep the grinding head well lubricated with a sponge soaked in water. Remember to clean the sponge after approximately one hours grinding.
Never attempt to grind any other type of material as this will ruin the grinder head.

My Top Tip for this month is an alternative to cutting oil.
If you've been looking for an alternative to cutting oil then try lamp oil, it must be of the clear unscented type otherwise it will tend to clog up the cutter. I've substituted this in my humans glass cutters and so far no one has even noticed, so it must be good.

If you have a tip you would like put forward then please e-mail me with the details. If you're another bear like me or some other character please send your details and even an image if possible.

Tip from Bill Watkins UK.
It helps to warm the glass when copper foiling, the glue on the foil sticks better.

Tip from Karen Sarll UK
Hi - have you tried using white spirit instead of oil - I was given this tip and find it much better but that might be because I do fusing and would have to clean the oil off.